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Adopted Patch - A patch produced by a vendor not commissioned or ordered by a unit which was subsequently adopted by that unit.
Air Force Colors - Air Force yellow signifies the excellence required of Air Force personnel; Air Force (ultramarine) blue signifies the sky as the primary theater for Air Force operations. (From Air Force Instruction 84-105)
Approved Patch - Any patch authorized by a competent authority. A patch may be approved, but not be official.
Authentic Patch (also Legitimate Patch) - A patch commissioned by a unit/unit member that originated from the original manufacturer.
Backing (also Backing Support) - Material used beneath the embroidered fabric to provide strength, stability and support.
Backing Support - See Backing
BEVo (also "BeVo", "Be Vo", or "BEVO") - A machine-woven patch with a very tight weave - some might call it a micro weave -that, at a glance, may even appear to some to be screened. This unique method of construction was developed by the Germans during WWII and apparently is still unique to patches from Germany. The name is derived from the firm of Bandfabrik Ewald Vorsteher, in Wuppertal-Baren, where this manufacturing technique originated. (Definition courtesy of Greg Ogletree)
Bullion Patch - Embroidered patch made with metal wire thread on a cloth backing, typically hand-sewn. Bullion patches were typically required on dress uniforms for formal occasions.
Camo Patch - See Subdued Patch
Camouflaged Patch - See Subdued Patch
Cheesecloth Backing - See Gauze Backing
Chenille Patch - Type of patch in which a loop stitch is formed on the top side of fabric using heavy yarn of wool, cotton, or acrylic thus giving a "rug" like appearance (a high-school "letter" patch is a good example). Seldom seem in Air Force patches, most date from the 1950s.
Class Patch - Type of morale patch produced by training classes such as pilot training, navigator training, Weapons School, and space/missile training. Pilot, navigator and space/missile class patches are typically identified by a class number which includes the fiscal year of the class and the number of the class (e.g. -- 90-08 indicates the eighth class of 1990). Class patches may or may not be approved for wear.
Color Patch - See Full Color Patch
Computer Embroidery - Style of embroidery made on computer-driven multi-head sewing machines allowing for a much greater level of detail than older methods of embroidery.
Current Issue - Patch currently issued and used by member(s) of a unit.
Custom - See Hand-Made Patch
Cut Edge (also Flat Edge, Schiffli Edge) - Type of border that is sewn on a patch then cut to shape, thus making the base material visible outside the sewn border. Cuts are most commonly made by a die, hand, a hot-edge knife or in recent times, a laser. This type of border was extremely common on patches prior to the wide-spread adoption of the merrowed edge in the 1960s. Most irregular shaped patches use a cut edge to prevent the fraying associated with a merrowed edge.
Damaged - A patch that has suffered a slice or cut, usually inflicted while attempting to remove it from a uniform or from Velcro; that has a visible stain on the front side (even if only rust from a staple); or that is missing some portion of the embroidery or base material (does not include doctoring). It should be noted that patches containing mounting residue on the back, even heavy residue, are not considered damaged unless its presence or effects are visible while viewing from the front (e.g., the glue has soaked through the fabric and stained or discolored the front). (Definition courtesy of Greg Ogletree)
Death Patch (see also Inactivation Patch, Retirement Patch) - Term occasionally used in reference to a morale patch produced to commemorate the inactivation of a unit or the retirement of a weapon system, often with the year(s) indicated in the design or on rocker, tab, or scroll. (Definition courtesy of Greg Ogletree)
Decaled - Some vintage patches, especially WWII leather patches, were created by applying a decal to the surface rather than by painting or embroidering the design elements. These typically show their age by cracking and/or flaking as the decal becomes more and more brittle with age. (Definition courtesy of Greg Ogletree)
Deployment Patch (see also TDY Patch) - Type of morale patch produced by units/individuals for deployments.
Desert Patch (also Desert Subdued Patch, Tan Patch) - Patch whose color palette features predominately brown/tan color tones. The official Air Force desert color palette consists of black, spice brown and khaki, however many desert patches use additional colors. Desert patches are worn on the Desert Camouflaged Uniform (DCU) and the desert flightsuit. Desert patches came into widespread use in the Air Force during the 1990s.
Desert Subdued Patch - See Desert Patch
Disc - Shape on which the heraldic devices, symbols, or elements of a unit emblem are displayed. The disc of today originated with a roundel, which consisted of a white five-pointed star in a blue circle, with a red disc in the center of the star. The roundel was displayed unofficially on early USA Signal Corps airplanes, adopted officially in 1917 for airplanes, and later evolved into the national star and bar aircraft marking of today. The US Air Force adopted the disc in the early 1950s as the official shape for squadron emblems. (From Air Force Instruction 84-105)
Doctored - A patch that has been intentionally changed in some manner from what was produced originally. This may be anything from cutting off a rocker, scroll, or tab, to something as subtle as adding embroidery (often difficult to detect without a close examination of the back side). Post-production embroidery may include the addition of one or more elements to the field, but more often it is done to correct a "typo" in the designation or motto. Occasionally, it's even done to change an inscription rather than to fix an error-even officially! (Definition courtesy of Greg Ogletree)
Element - In emblem design, a symbol or group of symbols portraying a single characteristic, trait, or concept. (From Air Force Instruction 84-105)
Emblem - An officially approved symbolic design portraying the distinctive history, mission, and general function of an organization. It is an important, abiding element of the organization's heritage. [Official emblems have been approved by a formal process outlined in Air Force regulations/instructions and are registered with the Air Force Historical Research Agency or the Air National Guard History Office. Official emblems are protected by Federal law.] (From Air Force Instruction 84-105)
Embroidered on Twill - See Partially Embroidered Patch
Embroidery - The application of thread to the base material (usually twill) for the purpose of creating an emblematic design using one or more elements. (There are known to exist patches from several units, particular back in the 1940s, where colored beads were added to the thread, sometimes to outline and other times to completely "fill" an element and/or the field itself, but such "beaded" patches were custom-made and not at all common.) (Definition courtesy of Greg Ogletree)
Error Patch - See Rejects
Factory Patch (also Manufacturers Patch) - Patch given out as promotional items by a weapons system contractor. Factory patches are often adopted by military units for wear (e.g. - the F-16 Fighting Falcon "Swirl").
Eye-Candy - See Fakes
Fakes (also Eye-Candy, Unauthorized Patch, Fantasy Patch) - Patches never commissioned by a unit/unit member and never issued or used.
Fantasy Patch - See See Fakes
Felt - Nonwoven fabric made from wool, fur or hair matted together by heat, moisture and pressure.
Felt Edge - Raw or unfinished embroidery border.
Flat-Edge - See Cut-Edge
Friday Patch (see also Morale Patch) - Any patch worn on flightsuits in place of approved patches on Fridays. In the Air Force, on Fridays personnel are usually allowed to wear any patch in good taste (although this is commonly violated) on the left sleeve of their flightsuit.
Full Color Patch (also Color Patch, Vivid Patch) - Patch whose color palette features the full spectrum of colors. The Institute of Heraldry color palette officially uses 39 different colors.
Fully Embroidered Patch - Patch in which the entire surface has been completely embroidered, therefore rendering the base fabric invisible. Fully embroidered patches cost more to manufacture due to the use of additional thread.
Gaggle Patch (see also Pizza Patch, Wing King Patch) - Patch representative of multiple units assigned to an organization. The term originates from a mother goose and her young, "a gaggle".
Gauze Backing (also Cheesecloth Backing) - A fabric backing for patches that is very thin and has the appearance of the type of material used for surgical dressings or first aid. This backing was common on many patches during the 1950s and 1960s. (Definition courtesy of Greg Ogletree)
Generic Patch - Patch used by numerous units/organizations.
Ghost - Collector term for a patch that is embroidered in only one color, usually black or white, making the design very difficult to discern. Some of these actually use a different color for the merrowing or they have a normally colored scroll and inscription, but such patches are more accurately called "Quasi-Ghost." (Definition courtesy of Greg Ogletree)
Hand-Made Patch (also Custom Patch) - Patch produced by an individual embroiderer using a needle and thread or a generic sewing machine. The design is transferred to cloth by punching holes in the original drawing, placing the drawing on a piece of cloth, and rubbing blue powder to transfer an outline of the design to cloth. Designs may also be drawn directly on the cloth or done freehand. Because each patch is individually embroidered, no two patches are exactly alike.
Hat Patch - Generally, any patch that was intended for wear on a uniform hat or cap. These include small rectangular patches bearing unit designations, and also smaller versions of approved unit emblems (generally 2.5" or less in height or diameter). (Definition courtesy of Greg Ogletree)
Heat-Seal Backing (also Iron-On) - Special backing placed on a patch that allows it to be affixed using heat.
Heraldry - The emblem, motto, designation, scroll(s), and shield (of an establishment) or disc (of a unit). (From Air Force Instruction 84-105)
Heritage - Those traditions embodied in the history, lineage, honors, and heraldry of an organization. (From Air Force Instruction 84-105)
Heritage Patch - A patch, ordered and used by a unit, which features a historical design previously used by that unit. Heritage patches are not considered reproductions in collecting circles.
Hook and Loop Fastener (also VELCRO) - A two-sided fastener consisting of stiff "hooks" and soft "loops". Hook and loop fasteners were patented by Swiss inventor George de Mestral in 1955 under the name VELCRO. Although VELCRO is often used generically to refer to hoop and loop fasteners, the term actually is a registered trademark referring to the company and its line of products. Hook and loop fasteners came into widespread use to attach patches to flightsuits in the 1980s.
Inactivation Patch (see also Death Patch) - Morale patch produced to commemorate the inactivation of a unit.
In-Country Made Patch - See Theater-Made Patch
Iron-on - See Heat-Seal Backing
Jacket Patch (also Backpatch) - Term used to refer to any very large patch (7 inches or greater in height, width, or diameter). Typically, such large-sized patches were intended for wear on the back (of a jacket or perhaps coveralls) or the upper front of a jacket, but these were also produced for some organizational flags. (Definition courtesy of Greg Ogletree)
Knock-Offs - See Reproduction
Leather Patch - Emblem that is printed, painted or decaled on leather. Leather patches were popular during World War II and Korea and often worn on leather flight jackets.
Leatherette - Term occasionally used to describe the backing upon which emblems are embroidered that are intended for wear on the modern A-2 jacket, though it is actually vinyl. Also, this term was used to describe "patches" made during the 1950s and 1960s whose construction consisted of a screened emblem or a decal that was applied to a cardboard-like material with a peel-and-stick backing that was intended for attachment to flight jackets (these emblems would never have endured the launderings a flight suit or uniform shirt experiences). The most commonly observed patches of this sort are from the 4082d Strategic Wing and the North East Air Command (NEAC). (Definition courtesy of Greg Ogletree)
Legitimate Patch - See Authentic Patch
Lineage - The unique, official, traceable record of organizational actions peculiar to each Air Force organization and to no other organization. (From Air Force Instruction 84-105)
Lineage & Honors History - A statement that identifies the lineage, accrued honors, assignments, stations, and emblem of an organization. It may include a list of commanders and a list of aircraft, missiles, or both. If the organization is an establishment, the lineage and honors history may also identify component organizations. Lineage and honors histories for combat or support organizations that participated in significant Air Force operations may also contain narrative summaries of operations. Many lineage and honors histories are available on-line from the Air Force Historical Research Agency Organizational History Branch. (From Air Force Instruction 84-105)
Loom - A machine for weaving together threads of various colors to form a patch. The most popular of these were manufactured by Schiffli, and the patches they produced are often referred to as Swiss Embroidery. The principal advantage of loom-made patches was that large numbers could be made relatively inexpensively, since each run of a large Schiffli loom could produce a hundred patches. After setup, a typical order of 1,000 patches could be made in little more than an hour. (Definition courtesy of Greg Ogletree)
Manufacturer's Overruns - See Overruns
Manufacturers Patch - See Factory Patch
Manufacturer's Sample - See Sample
Merrowed Edge (also Overedge Stitch, Overlock Stitch or Rolled Edge) - A patch having a protective "molding" of threat all around its edge, often referred to as a "rolled edge" because of its appearance, the original purpose of which was to prevent raveling. Merrowing is an overedge stitch added using a special machine. On loom-made patches, this is performed after a patch has been embroidered and cut; on multihead-made patches, it's done to the pre-made twill "blanks" before they are embroidered. The telltale sign of merrowing is the "pigtail" end that is usually either glued or taped to the back of the patch. Merrowing machines are named after their inventor, Joseph M. Merrow. Although a few patches with merrowing from the 1940s and 1950s have been observed, merrowing of military patches didn't emerge until the 1960s, didn't really "catch on" until the 1970s, and didn't become widespread until the 1980s. Merrowing now seems to be the industry standard, though quite a few are still unmerrowed. It should be noted that because twill doesn't ravel and is often treated, cut-edge patches really don't need merrowing, so nowadays it's usually added because the designer thinks it enhances the looks of the patch. (Definition courtesy of Greg Ogletree)
Morale Patch - Unofficial patches that are used by a unit. Morale patches may be, but are not necessarily, approved. Such patches are designed to raise the "morale" of the unit, thus the origins of the term.
Motto - Part of the heraldry of an organization. It expresses in a word or short phrase the organization's goals, ideals, or principles. (From Air Force Instruction 84-105)
Muted Patch - See Subdued Patch
Nipped - A patch with visible moth damage, usually one or more holes of varying sizes, but could also include, or might be limited to, munching done at the edge (technically, not holes). (Definition courtesy of Greg Ogletree)
No-Glo - This term describes a patch that does not fluoresce when illuminated by light in the ultraviolet wavelengths (i.e., when observed using a "blacklight"). More recent patches tend to be constructed of synthetic fibers which will "glow" when thus exposed, whereas patches made before the introduction of synthetics generally do not glow (the one exception is when an older patch has been washed with a detergent, which tends to leave a residue that appears to glow). (Definition courtesy of Greg Ogletree)
NOS - An acronym used by some dealers which stands for "New Old Stock," a term created to describe both the condition and the age of an item simultaneously (i.e., an older patch that is unused and in like-new condition). (Definition courtesy of Greg Ogletree)
Official Patch - A patch of a unit's official, approved emblem. Official emblems have been approved by a formal process outlined in Air Force regulations/instructions and are registered with the Air Force Historical Research Agency or the Air National Guard History Office. Official emblems are protected by Federal law.
Overedge Stitch - See Merrowed Edge
Overlock Stitch - See Merrowed Edge
Overruns (also Manufacturer's Overruns) - Extra patches produced above and beyond a customer's original order.
Painted Patches - Patches, almost always using leather for the base material, upon which the elements have been depicted by painting them on. These were quite popular and fairly common during World War II, especially in flying units. Because high-tech methods are about the only way to determine the vintage, and therefore the authenticity, of such patches, these are frequently reproduced. (Definition courtesy of Greg Ogletree)
Patch - (From Air Force Instruction 84-105) An informal term used to refer to the cloth depiction [also leather/leatherette] of an emblem (either in full color, subdued for camouflage [or desert]) that can be affixed to a uniform. (From Air Force Instruction 84-105)
Partially Embroidered (PE) Patch (also Embroidered on Twill) - Patch in which part of its surface has been embroidered, therefore rendering portions of the base fabric visible. Partially embroidery costs less to manufacture than fully embroidered patches. Partially embroidered patches are referred to as "Embroidered on Twill", however the term is incorrect as technically, fully embroidered patches are embroidered on twill as well. Additionally, the base material used is not always twill.
Pencil Pocket Patch (also Tab Patch) - Type of morale patch designed to be affixed to the hook and loop fastener located on the left sleeve of a flightsuit. The pencil pocket flap is often removed from the flightsuit thus allowing patches to be attached.
Pigtail - Piece of thread on a merrowed edge that extends beyond the patch. Pigtails are often taped or sealed to the back of a patch.
Pizza Patch - Type of gaggle patch which resembles a pizza pie.
Pocket Patch - Any patch intended for wear on a uniform pocket, though in practice these were/are worn above the pocket also. Does not include square or rectangular patches containing only a unit designation, as these were intended for wear only above the pocket (like a name tape) or on headgear. Because of their equivalent sizes, Shoulder Sleeve Insignia are properly considered pocket patches by most patch collectors. (Definition courtesy of Greg Ogletree)
Previous Issue - A patch that was previously issued and worn by member(s) of a unit.
Prototype Patch - See Sample
Puff Embroidery - Stitching over embroidery/craft foam to create a three-dimensional effect.
Rejected Patch - See Rejects
Rejects (also Error Patch, Rejected Patch) - Patches that were ordered by a unit/individual but were refused and/or returned to the manufacturer. Patches are rejected for a multitude of reasons including misspellings or issues with patch quality. Manufacturers often dump these patches onto the market in order to recoup losses. In patch collecting, a reject is considered practically worthless.
Replicas - See Reproduction
Reproduction (also Knock-Offs, Repros, Replicas) - A copy of a patch produced by a different embroiderer than that used by the unit/individual. Reproductions were never ordered or used by a unit or the individual(s) that commissioned the original patch.
Repros - See Reproduction
Retirement Patch (see also Death Patch) - Morale patch produced to commemorate the retirement of a system/weapon system.
Reunion Patch (also Reunion Piece) - A unit patch, ordered by veteran or reunion groups, which features an emblem used by that particular organization. Since these patches are ordered by former members of a unit, they are not considered reproductions. For pricing purposes, reunion patches generally are worth considerably less than an original patch.
Reunion Piece - See Reunion Patch
Rockers - See Scrolls
Rolled Edge - See Merrowed Edge
Sample (also Manufacturer's Sample, Prototype Patch) - Pre-production patch made by a manufacturer used to obtain customer approval for full-scale production.
Schiffli Edge - See Cut-Edge
Schiffli Embroidery - See Swiss Embroidery
Screened Patch - See Screenprinted Patch
Screenprinted Patch (also Screened Patch, Silk-Screened Patch) - Screenprinting is a technique using a stencil on a silk, nylon or organdy screen. Paint is applied to the screen and penetrates areas of the screen not blocked by the stencil. Several stencils are used to achieve multiple colors.
Scroll (also Rocker) - A ribbon, often with rolled ends, used to inscribe a motto, unit designation or other information. In patches, scrolls are often found attached to discs and shields.
Selvedged - Similar to merrowing in both appearance and purpose, but this edge finishing is performed with a sort of cross-stitch (very much like a button-hole stitch) rather than by using a merrowing machine, so there is no pigtail remnant and the edging lacks the "rolled" look of merrowing. (Definition courtesy of Greg Ogletree)
Shield - Shape on which the heraldic devices, symbols, or elements of an establishment's emblem are displayed. This shape derives from the shield displayed on the Air Force Seal, which the Department of the Air Force adopted in 1947. The Air Force requires establishments to use this type shield to display their distinctive emblems on organizational flags and emblems. Patches for uniforms using this shield shape were phased in during late 1940s and early 1950s as the US Army Air Forces shield was phased out. (From Air Force Instruction 84-105)
Shoulder Sleeve Insignia (SSI) - Primarily an Army term, used to describe patches intended for wear on the upper portion of the uniform sleeve, near the shoulder seam. Has applicability for USAF patch collectors who collect early United States Army Air Forces or Air Corps insignia. (Definition courtesy of Greg Ogletree)
Silk-Screened Patch - See Screenprinted Patch
Soiled - A patch that has not only lost any original luster or sheen it may have once had, but which also has visible dirt, grime, or skin oil accumulation or contamination on its surface. (Definition courtesy of Greg Ogletree)
Spoof - A patch that, at first glance, very closely resembles an official patch, but something has been slightly modified for the purpose of making good-natured fun of the original or what it represents. This "adjustment" is usually to the designation or motto on the scroll (e.g., "CHAIRBORNE" rather than "AIRBORNE"), but occasionally is made to the emblem design itself. A spoof patch differs from a doctored patch in that doctored patches are changed after production, whereas spoofs are manufactured that way. (Definition courtesy of Greg Ogletree)
Subdued Patch (also Camo Patch, Camouflaged Patch, Muted Patch) - Patch whose color palette features predominately dark green, brown and black tones. The official Air Force subdued color palette consists of black, olive drab, spruce green, garnet, and flag blue, however many desert patches use additional colors. Subdued patches are worn predominately on the old fatigue and current Battle Dress Uniform (BDU), however, they can also be found on flightsuits, particularly by those worn in the Special Operations community. Subdued patches came into widespread use in the Air Force during the late 1970's and were mandated for wear on the fatigue uniform in 1980.
Swiss Embroidery (also Schiffli Embroidery) - Swiss embroidery involves a paper tape, punched like the roll for a player piano, that is mechanically "read" by a machine that directs hundreds of needles on a loom simultaneously. The process begins with a sketch of the patch, enlarged to six times the size of the finished product, with every other stitch actually drawn in by hand. The operator traces every indicated stitch line with a metal stylus, creating a paper template for the loom. During the sewing, a different color of thread is used on each "pass" and this, in effect, layers one color on top of another, creating a bas-relief effect, as opposed to the uniformly flat surface of a Multi-Head patch. Two or three layers is fairly common, but attempting to penetrate too many layers tends to break needles, so rarely are more than four or five observed. The perception of depth from the raised layers of color, and the effects of highlighting and shadowing that occurred naturally when light hits the patch from various angles, tends to make some of these patches with more elaborate designs true works of art. This type of patch embroidery had its genesis in Switzerland, hence the term "Swiss embroidery," but the process was imported into the United States and was firmly established in the northern New Jersey area by the outbreak of World War II. (Fully 70% of embroidery in the United States is still performed in that state.) Swiss embroidered emblems are often referred to as Schiffli patches because they are made on Schiffli looms. These looms use a shuttle that resembles the shape of a sailboat's hull, and "Schiffli" means "little boat" in the Swiss dialect of the German language. (Definition courtesy of Greg Ogletree)
Tab Patch - See Pencil-Pocket Patch
Tan Patch - See Desert Patch
TDY Patch (see also Deployment Patch) - Type of morale patch produced by units/individuals for temporary duty assignments (TDYs).
Theater-Made Patch (also In-Country Made Patch) - Patch made by a local vendor at overseas bases or deployment locations. Theater patches are typically, but not always, handmade in limited quantities (since the 90's many local vendors have switched to computer-driven embroidery machines). Frequently, theater-made patches are specified by country or region (e.g. - Far-East made, Turkish, etc.) Some of the more common countries for theater-made patches include Japan, Korea, Philippines, Vietnam, Thailand, Turkey and Saudi Arabia. Theater-made patches are usually more sought after by collectors due to the limited quantity available.
Tinsel - Actually, aluminized Mylar, this is a metallic-looking polyester thread that has the appearance of either silver or gold. Mylar should not be, but often is, confused with bullion thread. (Definition courtesy of Greg Ogletree)
Tracking - The destructive trail left by moth larvae as they eat their way along the surface of a woolen object. These "tracks" are usually about 1/16" (1mm) wide. (Definition courtesy of Greg Ogletree)
Twill (also Twill Weave, Twill Fabric) - Strong, durable, firm fabric typically used as the base of a patch, characterized by diagonal ribs. Twill fabric is typically a polyester or a cotton/polyester blend and is quite durable and can be dry cleaned or washed and still look crisp. One of the most appealing characteristics of twill is that it doesn't ravel. (Portion of definition courtesy of Greg Ogletree)
Twill Fabric - See Twill
Twill Weave - See Twill
Unauthorized Patch - See Fakes
VELCRO - See Hook and Loop Fasteners
Vivid - See Full Color Patch
Wing King Patch - A gaggle worn by Wing/Group Commanders representative of multiple units assigned to their organization.
Wool - Occasionally used in lieu of twill, especially on older patches from the 1940s or earlier. (Portion of definition courtesy of Greg Ogletree)
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